Vela Stiniva

Click here for pictures of Vela Stiniva:

Vela Stiniva is one of the two super-crags of the Island. It features two main sectors – one for hard climbing and one for easy and beginner climbing.

Basic info

Parking – Yes
Approach – Walking 5-10min
Season – All through the year, shade in the West sector during summer
Climbing – Overhangs and tufas, moderate and hard mostly
Equipment – Sport climbing equipment, up to 70m rope, up to 15 quickdraws
Route listClick here

Directions

The climbing area is situated in a little cove called Vela Stiniva, with no more than a dozen houses and a nice beach. If you are coming from the direction of Starigrad/Hvar/Jelsa and other places on the west side of the island, just take the main road to Sućuraj. After about 15km from Jelsa, you will reach a hill-side village Zastražišće. In the village itself, turn left at the sign for “Vela Stiniva” and just follow the road to the sea.

If you are coming from Sućuraj or other places on the east side, or you are taking an express 30min ferry from Drvenik (near Makarska, on the mainland), just carry on towards Jelsa for 30km and the same sign appears on the right side. The roads on the east side of the island leave a lot to be desired so drive carefully.

Please see our interactive map for a detailed location.

Approach

Main sector West
The main moderate and hard climbing sector is located on the west side of the cove, featuring a large cave and slight overhangs around it, including some superb terrain for belaying and chilling in the shade. When approaching the sector, you will first reach the bottom of the cove near the parking spot and than walk westward towards the houses under the sector. It is a little tricky to navigate around the houses but please take your time and do not walk through private property and gardens. The sector itself is also partly located at private property so respect the owners and respect the silence and nature of the cove.

Sector East
There is superb potential on the east side of the cove as well, but it has not yet been well equipped with enough routes. You will find up to 10 routes there.

Sectors A and B
The easier sectors are by the road when approaching the cove and you will see them as you drive, both on the left and right sides. There is a little parking spot on the left side of the road, enough for 2 cars.

Parking and Accomodation

You can currently park at a small parking near the restaurant, but please use this wisely since it is not yet being charged, but heavy usage may change the situation.

There is no camping in Vela Stiniva itself and wild camping is forbidden in Croatia so you may be fined if you try. There is private accommodation all around the island and also in Vela Stiniva. If you do not plan to move much, you can stay there, but if you plan to visit other crags you should place yourself more strategically. See our accommodation section for more info.

Click here for Vela Stiniva Route list

One Comment

  1. Franci Gorjup
    July 11, 2024
    Reply

    Rusty bolt and old prusik on the anchor of routes Fastenzeit and SO Verschneidund in sector D Jugoistok.

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