Smrka (Brač island)

Smrka canyon is a new top quality area in development on the neighbouring island Brač. Number of routes is still growing and the potential in the canyon is really enormous. The cliff that is under development is just one of many different cliffs in the area. That cliff alone can host up to 100 routes when finished.

So far, there are 20-30 routes and most of them are 30-50m long. The cliff is slightly to highly overhanging and the grades of the current routes are in the upper grades.

What makes Smrka great is the quality of the rock, the beauty of the routes and the fact that it is in shade until around 4-5PM in the summer.

We would definitely recommend visiting this place if you climb in the 7s and 8s.

Basic info

Parking – At the end of the road described in the “Getting there” section
Approach – 15 minutes moderate walking from the parking
Season – Most of the year
Climbing – Moderate and hard.
Equipment – Sport climbing equipment, up to 80m rope, up to 20 quickdraws.
Young kids – The area under the rock is fine for small children. The approach is steep for about 20m so you would need to carry the small kids and hold on to a fixed rope.

Getting there from Hvar

First you need to get to Brač and for that there are many easy and cheap options:

  • Get a return ticket for a Jardolinija speed boat from Jelsa to Bol (on Brač). The ticket will be around 10 Euros for a return trip and travel times are good for a daily trip. From Jelsa you can catch a 6AM boat to get there and 5:50PM to return back to Hvar. Travel time is less than 20 minutes. Perfect for a full day of climbing. This is by far the best option, as you get a full day of climbing and a comfortable/cheap ride.
  • Get one of the tourist excursion boats from Hvar to Bol (on Brač). The ticket will be around 15Euros and the travel times are again convenient. Starting at 8AM and returning at late afternoon (ask at a local agency for details). Travel time would be around 30-40 minutes. Perfect for those not willing to get up for the 6AM from Jelsa. 🙂
  • Get a Jadrolinija speed boat from Hvar town. This one is a bit tricky, since it goes at 10:45AM, so you will have less than a full day of climbing.

Once you are on Brač you will need to get to the climbing area, which is roughly around 40 minutes from Bol. Again, there are options:

  • Rent a scooter for a day. It will be good enough for two people and will cost you around 25-40 Euros in total. Make sure you get a good scooter with large wheels, as the last 4.5km are on a good dirt road.
  • Rent a Quad for a day. It will be great for two people and lots of equipment. It would set you back 30-50Euros. Most quads and scooters rentals are located on the west side of the port so you will walk left once you exit the ferry.

Once you are set with your local ride, follow these instructions to get to the climbing area:

  1. Drive from Bol in the direction of Nerežišće until you see a sign to “Vidova gora”. Take that exit
  2. After around 3.2km on the asphalt road, you will see a right turn to “Pustinja Blaca” on a dirt road. Take that exit to “Pustinja Blaca”
  3. Drive until you reach a widening used for parking and some containers which serve as tourist shops form “Blaca hermitage”. Do not stop there, but follow the dirt road ahead.
  4. After around 350m, there will be an “Y” crossroad and you will take the right and continue on the right road for another 900m until you see a red water container and some bath tubs used as drinking places for sheep. Park there. (GPS: 43.2993, 16.52169)
  5. To your right will be red signs on the walking path leading you to the crag in some 15minutes or less.

Characteristics

Climbing is obviously on the hard side. It is possible to climb in the summer, since the cliff is in shade until 4-5PM. When the sun comes, it is your cue to run and catch your boat back.

It is possible to climb in the rain also, since most of the rock is overhanging.

 

Current route list

Small sector on the approach

1. Shiva 6a

2. ? 7a+

3. ? 7a+

4. ? 7b

5. San 6a

Main sector

1. A Brač adabra 7a+ , 30m

2. Croate qui peut 7a+, 32m

3: Old man blues 7a+, 32m

4. Gros Quick 7b+, 30m

5. Space di Kuna 7a, 38m

6. Clear Dark 7a+, 38m

7. Bric à Brač, ? , 25m

8. El Patator 8a, 38m

9. A base in Brač 7c, 35m

10. Un 8 à 100 euros,  8b, 46m

11. Olive Holds 8a+, 30m

12. I believe I can fly 8a, 33m

13. The Ninosaure 8a+/8b, 40m

14. La bura dura, 8b+, 43m,

15. Non de Zeus, 8c, 40m,

16. Rendez-vous, 8a, 50m

17. Brač à gauche, 8a, 50m

18. Glagolitic line 8a+, 35m

19. Tufa addict 8b, 35m,

20. Happiness therapy 8a, 35m,

21. Crabe power 8a, 38m

22. Brač le Bol 7c+, 30m

23. Prends-moi là ! 8b, 35m

24. A Kuna Matata 7c+, 40m

25. Carinthia line 6c+, 40m